The Beginning

First Early Morning Run

It's 5:45am on Friday and I've just left my apartment to go for a run (thanks jet lag!). I emerge from my apartment building expecting to find the streets deserted. Surely no one else gets up this early. Walking uphill towards Roppongi crossing, I'm surprised and impressed to see many Japanese people already up, dressed, out and about, making their way down the sidewalks. Wow, they must have a real work ethic here! Do the trains even run this early? (Note: YES) It's not until I notice a man being apprehended by 5 police officers and a gaggle of girls holding each other up as they totter and sway together in really high heels that I realize I've come across the late-night crowd making their way home (well, hopefully). I actually chuckle out loud and continue walking for several blocks even though I'd planned to start running, because the scene is just too amusing to pass by faster than necessary. 2 blocks from Roppongi crossing and just far enough away from the nearest bar or metro entrance the streets truly are completely empty save a few other brave runners making their way towards the path surrounding the Akasaka palace property. For a country basically devoid of meaningful crime, I am surprised to count ten police officers on the way to Akasaka palace and 6-8 armed guards flanking the entrance gates to the estate. In addition to regular police stations, Japan has police "kiosks" at many street corners throughout major cities in case, you know...well, actually I don't. Maybe that will become clear later.

So, by 6:38am when I return to Roppongi crossing, most of the party-goers have left, including previously mentioned belligerent drunk guy. Note: "apprehended" may be a strong term for what I observed. The police officers surrounding the guy were nodding, bowing, and talking in low voices to their subject. It seems the Japanese ideal of being polite in any circumstance may have won out over their right to use more force as law enforcement personnel. It kind of looked more like an intervention or counselling session among friends.

Name Calling - We're not in Kansas Anymore

After my run I went to breakfast at Lauderdale, where I was surprised to find the waitstaff recognized me from my trip in March when I ate breakfast there every day. I love the place because it has a French cafe feel, the waitress is super friendly, and the cappuccinos are to die for. I spent the rest of the day apartment hunting with my relocation counselor Namiko, an absolute gem of a 20-something young lady whose professionalism and maturity put the average American millennial to shame, and to whom I'm supposed to refer as Kase-san since it's very impolite to call anyone by their given name rather than family name. Thus if my mom, dad, brother, sister-in-law and I all went to a party together, we would introduce ourselves as Van Winkle, Van Winkle, Van Winkle, Van Winkle, and yes, you guessed it, Van Winkle. Yeah, all 5 of us go by the same name. HUH?!?? It has yet to become clear to me when given names are actually used. Maybe by one's mom or spouse? How am I supposed to address people in the office on Monday? Is the family name first or last on the business card? Stay tuned for further reports, sure to include embarrassing stories of name calling gone wrong only to be discovered much later because everyone here is way too polite to correct this wayward gaijin.

On tomorrow's docket: adventures in grocery shopping, swimming, and a picnic in Yoyogi park with 50 Tokyo singles. Oh boy!

Sushi for Expats tip: Certain sushi is prepared by brushing the finished bite with soy sauce. In this case, it is not necessary to dip your sushi in additional soy sauce. If you sit at the sushi counter, you can see the sushi chef prepare the fish in this way. My waitress last night, who was another true gem and very chatty, informed me in the same breath that "there are no rules for eating sushi" but "excuse me, you don't need more soy sauce on that one, it is already seasoned with it." Oh. Right, yup. Got it!